fashion

Thursday, March 30, 2006

How To Wear Hats Properly

There are two degrees of politeness demonstrated by a gentleman wearing a hat:


Lifting or tipping it, which you generally do for strangers.

Taking it off, which you generally do for friends (or in some cases, as a sign of patriotism or reverence).
Both are done as a sign of respect toward the other and dignity toward oneself.

Tipping your hat is a conventional gesture, done by barely lifting it off your head with your right hand (or the left hand if the right hand is occupied): By the crown of a soft hat, or the brim of a stiff one. Your cigarette, pipe or cigar should always be taken out of your mouth before removing or tipping your hat. This is a subtle gesture that should not be confused with bowing.


A man takes off his hat outdoors (and indoors):
1. When he is being introduced to someone, or when saying goodbye to a woman, elder, friend or ;
2. As a greeting when passing someone he knows, particularly a lady, on the street (In some cases, tipping or lifting a hat and bowing slightly may be used as a substitute for removing a hat, as a passing gesture);
3. While talking, particularly with a woman, an older man, or a clergyman;
4. While the National Anthem is being played, or the American Flag is passing;
5. At a funeral or in the presence of a passing funeral procession,
6. When speaking to another of a virtuous woman or a dearly departed loved one.

A man tips or lifts his hat:
1. When walking with a friend who passes a woman only the friend knows;
2. Any time a lady who is a stranger thanks you for some service or assistance;
3. Any time you excuse yourself to a woman stranger, such as if you accidentally disturb or jostle her in a crowd, or when you ask for pardon when passing in a tight space or when forced to walk between two people that are conversing, particularly if one is a woman;

4. Any time a stranger shows courtesy to a woman you are accompanying, such as when a man or woman picks up something she has dropped, or a man opens a door for her or gives her his seat;
5. When you ask a woman (or an elderly man) for directions.

Indoors, a man should always remove his hat, (particularly in a home, church, courtroom or restaurant) except:
1. In some public buildings or public places such as railroad stations or post offices;
2. In the main parlor area of a saloon or general store;
3. or while seated at the "lunch counter" of a diner or cafe;
4. In entrance halls and corridors of office buildings, or hotels;
5. In elevators of public or office buildings, unless a woman is present;
6. If carrying packages, parcels or bags and both hands are occupied upon entry.
7. If the man is an actor or performer and the hat is being worn as a part of a costume or performance.


If in doubt, it is best for a gentleman to remove his hat indoors as soon as practical. It is considered a sign of contempt and/or disrespect to leave your hat on when it would be proper to remove it. These rules of course applied in the day when everyone wore hats. Rebelious liberals in the early 1960s began the movement of no hats, following the example of then President Kennedy. Today, hats do not signify a political stance, and do not signify RULES. However, there are times when it would seem appropriate to remove your hat. Today, hats, sunglasses, etc are accepted to be worn anywhere, anytime. What you wear and when you wear it are part of your individuality, and that's why hats are today again increasing in popularity. If everyone wore a hat, it really wouldn't be special, would it?



PORTIONS EXCERPTED FROM EVIL SWEDE'S GUIDE TO PROPER HAT ETIQUETTE, THE "COWBOY CHRONICLE" & THE ESSENTIAL HANDBOOK OF VICTORIAN ETIQUETTE

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Sunday, March 05, 2006

Natural And Synthetic Fiber Weaving - What And How

The Weave

Types of weaves have often been mistaken for types of fabrics.
For example, satin is a type of weave, and does not denote fabric content.
Satin is woven from silk, polyester, acetate, or even blends of fibers.
Each different fiber content contributes to the hand and drape of the satin fabric also a weave that is seen in brocade, damask, and tapestry. I once called a fabric store to find jacquard woven fabric only to be told that they didn't carry natural fabrics.
The correct answer would have been to ask what type of jacquard I was looking for.


Manufactured Fabrics are usually made of filaments extruded as liquid and formed into various fibers. Because the fiber starts as a liquid, many of the fibers are colored before they become filament, thus they are difficult to dye after the fiber is woven into a fabric.



ACETATE is not a strong fiber but can be extruded into fibers of different diameter and woven into fabrics that have the luxurious look of silk but do not wear like silk. Acetate does not absorb moisture readily but dries fast and resists shrinking. This is a resilient fabric that resists wrinkling in addition to being pliable and soft with a good drape. Triacetate is an improved acetate fabric which doesn't melt as easier and is easier to care for. Remember, acetate in nail polish and nail polish remover will melt acetate as will alcohol so take care with perfumes and nail products including SuperGlue.


ACRYLIC is a fine soft and luxurious fabric with the bulk and hand of wool.
Light weight and springy, this fabric is non-allergenic, dries quickly, draws moisture away from the body and is washable. Acrylic does not take even a moderate amount of heat. Modacrylics are used in pile fabrics like fake fur and are more flame resistant.


LASTEX is an elastic fiber made from Latex. It is most often used with other fibers to create fabrics such as Spandex and foundation garments. Lastex will deteriorate after repeated washing and drying, losing its elasticity.


NYLON became a household word in 1940 when it was knitted into hosiery. In
1942 it was called into service for the armed forces use in parachutes, flak vests, combat uniforms, tires and many other vital military uses. Until the war was over nylon was not available to the public. Nylon became one of the most versatile fibers of the man-made fabrics. In addition to hosiery, nylon is used in tricot, netting for bridal veils, and in carpeting.

Nylon is stronger yet weighs less than any other commonly used fiber. It is elastic and resilient and responsive to heat setting. Nylon fibers are smooth, non-absorbent and dry quickly. Dirt doesn't cling to this smooth fiber nor is it weakened by chemicals and perspiration. Extensive washing and drying in an automatic dryer can eventually cause piling. Nylon whites should be washed separately to avoid graying. This fabric may yellow so it should be bleached frequently with sodium perborate bleach.Nylon melts at high temperatures. If ironing is necessary, always use a low temperature on the wrong side.



POLYESTER is a strong fiber that is resistant to crease and thus keeps it shape. Polyester melts at medium to high temperatures. Although many people dislike polyester, perhaps do to the double knit fad of the 1950, polyester remains a versatile and important man-made fabric. Blends of polyester give cotton a permanent press property and extend the wear of these blended garments. Polyester is manufactured in many weights including fiber-fill used in pillows and upholstery. Threads spun from polyester fibers are strong, wear exceptionally well, and are used extensively in home sewing and manufactured sewing.


RAYON made from cellulose, has many of the qualities of cotton, a natural cellulose fiber. Rayon is strong, extremely absorbent, comes in a variety of qualities and weights, and can be made to resemble natural fabrics. Rayon does not melt but burns at high temperatures.
Rayon drapes well, has a soft, silky hand, and has a smooth, napped, or bulky surface. Rayon will wrinkle easily and may stretch when wet and shrink when washed. Technological advancemnts to the rayon process have produced high wet modulus [HWM] rayons such as lyocell and modal which makes fabric less prone to stretch when damp or wet. Washable rayon will state the care on the fabric label. Like silk, if you pre-wash rayon fabric prior to construction of the garment, you have a washable garment.


A short Glossary of Rayon Fabrics

Fibranne is French term for Viscose rayon.


Velvet although made from silk, is most often produced from the rayon fiber.


SPANDEX is an elastic type fiber that can be stretched many times its length and then spring back to the original length. Spandex is more resistant to washing, perspiration, and heat than latex. Spandex is used in foundation garments and hosiery.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com