Straight-of-grain Waistband Made Easy

If you enjoy sewing apparel, chances are that you'll encounter waistbands cut on the straight-of-grain frequently, especially with the popularity of separates in our wardrobes. In fact, so many of our garments have waistbands, and we open and close them so often, we tend to take them for granted. So let's take a look at why these waistbands deserve closer attention, and how to sew perfect ones.

Functions of a waistband

Waistbands are one way to finish the top edge of skirts, pants, and other separates. They're also part of the opening that provides entry for the garment. And perhaps most importantly, they anchor the garment at or near the waist. This small strip of fabric performs a big job: a waistband "carries" the entire garment.

Structuring waistbands

Because of these various functions, it's very important that waistbands are supported properly, which is accomplished through interfacing the waistband fabric. There are many interfacing materials that can be used, and the best one to choose depends on the amount of support and structure that's required for the particular garment style, fabric, and width of waistband. (Typically, wider waistbands need more support than narrower ones.) By experimenting with fusible interfacing, sew-in interfacings, and products specifically made for making waistbands, you'll discover which give you the results you like the most with specific fabrics and styles.

Selecting a waistband interfacing

The best way to choose which interfacing product to use for the inner support of a waistband is to make several test samples for each garment you make. Simply apply a few different interfacings to scraps of fabric after you've cut out the garment. With your fingers, feel the difference between the samples. You can also make a practice waistband if you want to make sure the interfacing in question will do a perfect job. Place the practice waistband around your body and try bending over and sitting. Does it keep it's shape or does it fold over? Is it too stiff? Does it feel comfortable? You'll also want to take into account what kind of wear the garment will receive; what kind of cleaning process the garment will undergo; and what type of closure the waistband will have.




Waistband materials

Waistbands are usually cut from the same fabric as the garment. Patterns generally call for the length of the waistband to be cut using the fabric's length-of-grain. This is preferable because the cross-grain normally has more inherent give than the length-of-grain. For design purposes, waistbands can be made from contrasting fabrics, or even from ribbon or other trims.

How wide should a waistband be? Most frequently, waistbands are either 1-1/4" wide or 1-1/2" wide, but there is no rule that says you must make your waistbands either of these widths. Some people like a narrower waistband - even as narrow as 3/8"; others prefer a wider waistband - 2" or more. Both comfort and style (design) will influence how narrow or wide you choose to make your waistbands.

Getting a comfortable circumference. Some people prefer snug waistbands and others prefer a looser fit. Commercial patterns have approximately 1" of ease in the waistband pattern (i.e., the finished waistband will be 1" larger than the waist measurement for the given size). But people's preferences vary a lot: some people like their waistbands equal to their actual waist measurement; some like their waistbands larger than their waist measurement; and some people like their waistbands smaller than their waist measurement. This is a personal choice - and part of the benefit of getting custom tailored garments is that you can make a waistband fit exactly how you like it!

Waistband closures

Some people choose a buttonhole and button closure, while others prefer a skirt/pants hook and eye (this is a flat hook-and-eye set that is about 1/2" long). The choice is yours, depending on the look you want to create. Using a hook-and-eye closure results in a very clean looking garment, while buttons can be a decorative element.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Types Of Cloth

Mohair

Mohair is the hair from the Angora goat. It is distinctive from wool, in that it has a different fibre structure, which hangs in ringlets and is exceedingly fine, soft and silky.

The name ‘Angora’ originates from the province of Angora in Turkey where these goats have been farmed for centuries and are said to have descended from the Cashmere goat. To achieve the best quality of Mohair fibre, the fleece should be shorn from goats under eight years old, after which time the hair becomes too coarse. The first clipping from the Angora goat is called ‘Kid Mohair’ and because it is the first ever clip, the fibre tends to be the softest.

Mohair is the most durable of all animal fibres, with natural lustre and resistance to dirt and creasing. Angora goats thrive in habitats of high altitude, warm climate, abundant grazing pastures and fresh water.

As with wool, mohair can be spun on the woollen or worsted system. Worsted mohair suiting fabrics have a clean, crisp handle with a bright, lively surface as the natural lustre of the fibre is used to full effect. They are light in weight, and yet the strength of the fibre guarantees a hard wearing, long lasting cloth.

Vicuna

Inca legend tells of the vicuna as the reincarnation of a beautiful young maiden who was wooed by an old, ugly king. She would only consent to his advances if he promised her a coat of pure gold. This is how the vicuna came to have its golden fleece. Considered sacred by the Incas, only royalty were allowed to wear the vicunas precious fleece, also known as the fibre of the gods. The attraction of vicuna fleece has not diminished with time; today, vicunas continue to be worshipped as sacred animals by the indigenous Aymara Indians of Peru and Bolivia. The incredibly soft and luxurious handle of the vicuna fleece has made this shy and diminutive creature a most sought-after treasure since the time of the Incas. These revered mammals are to be found in the extreme heights of the Altiplano regions of the Andes, most commonly in Peru. A vicuna’s fur is thick but soft and the fibre length is rarely more than 25mm making it more suitable for woollen spun fabrics. However, the fibre that has been used to produce this range of fabrics has a staple length greater than 30mm; making it the first vicuna fibre to be spun into yarn using the worsted spinning system

Silk

Silk is a natural protein fibre spun by the silkworm as it makes its cocoon and is one of the strongest natural fibres. Silk has always held a special position as a quality fibre, and was originally reserved for the Emperors of China, but quickly became popular throughout Chinese culture, Asia and beyond by means of the Silk Road.




The Silk Road refers to the extensive trade routes across Asia, connecting North Africa and Europe. This network extended over 8,000km and enabled traders and merchants to transport luxury goods including silk, rubies, diamonds and pearls across the continents.

Silk fibres have a triangular cross section with rounded corners, allowing light to reflect at many different angles giving a natural shine and lustre. Appropriate for all climates, the naturally good moisture absorbency of silk allows the fibres to maintain their insulation properties making silk cloth comfortable to wear even in warm climates.

Cotton

Cotton is a soft, vegetable fibre that grows in a form known as a boll around the seeds of the cotton plant, a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, India and Africa. Successful cultivation of cotton requires a long frost-free period, plenty of sunshine, and a moderate rainfall.

The fibre can be spun into yarn or thread producing a soft, breathable textile. Cotton has been spun, woven, and dyed since prehistoric times, clothing the people of ancient India, Egypt, and China.

Europeans knew little about the origins of cotton prior to the 15th Century. Up until this time they believed cotton to be derived from a sheep-bearing plant, noting its similarities to wool.

Legend told of a wonderful tree which grew in India and bore tiny lambs on the ends of its branches. These branches were so pliable that they bent down to allow the lambs to feed when they were hungry. The advent of the Industrial Revolution in Britain provided a great boost to cotton manufacture, as textiles emerged as Britain's leading export.

Linen

The manufacture of linen yarn and fabric is a complicated process, one that requires skill and expertise from the cultivation of the raw flax plant, to the combing and processing of the fibres in preparation for spinning and weaving. The use of linen dates back to ancient times; it was the first known textile fibre in the world, with the earliest traces of its use dating back to 8000 BC. Linen has also been discovered in Egyptian tombs wrapped around the mummified bodies of pharaohs, it was seen as a symbol of light and purity, and a display of wealth.

Linen is highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, keeping the body cool when worn in hot climates. It has a smooth, lustrous surface with a natural resistance to dirt and staining and is the strongest of the vegetable fibers, with two to three times the strength of cotton.

Linen fabrics have a high natural lustre, with the ability to absorb and lose water rapidly, gaining up to 20% moisture content without feeling damp. The natural look of linen cloth is an elegant choice for casual wear, warm weather, weekends and holidays.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Color Coordination

COLOR ME KNOWLEDGEABLE

“Honey, does this red shirt and orange tie look OK together?”

We don’t need a degree in color engineering, but a lot hinges on this! Everyday you put together many elements of your attire. Your choice of the colors you mix and match can make a significant impression on how you look to others.

Colors are like kids and employees. Some work together, and get along just fine; others always fight.

Color is energy, if you’re wearing the colors that are right for you, you’ll look dynamic. Color coordination not only makes you look good, but also gives you an organized and professional image.

We’ll try to put an end to those mornings that find you late for work, standing in front of the mirror, holding up six ties, and two shirts against your new suit! Some basic color knowledge, and a lot of experience will help you coordinate those dazzling ensembles with confidence and ease, and maybe even have time for a second cup of coffee.

Men have it easier than women in the color world since most business is conducted in navy, or gray suits, white or blue shirts, and only in our ties and pocket squares are we “allowed” the freedom to get colorful (but even there one rarely sees fuchsia!). Well maybe on the golf course, but even there we look better if the colors match!

The word match comes from an Old English word "gemaecca" which was shortened to "macche" meaning mate or companion!




Why pink for little girls and blue for little boys? An old European fairly tale had baby girls springing forth from pink roses! Blue is the color of the heavens and parents thought it would protect infant sons from the Devil!

We’re not even going to discuss here coordinating the other factors like patterns or fabric weight, and texture. However when all the colors mesh and the patterns are not all the same design or size, you could pull off wearing all patterns!!

Note this News :

Perception of your IQ may be reflected in your shirt color!

When others are repulsed by “loud”, do they mean the volume of your voice or the colors of your clothes?

Both!

According to Clare Spiegel, president of Your New Image, a career consulting company, bright colors and loud talk give an impression of low intelligence!

As reported in Men’s Health Magazine, speaking in a mid volume during a speech or presentation projects more intelligence than speaking too loudly. Speaking in moderate tones presents a calm and authoritative image rather than an appearance that you are desperate to convince everyone of your point. Too loud also can be perceived as boisterous and obnoxious.

The same goes for loud clothing colors, Spiegel says! For example, if you’re going to don a Hawaiian shirt for an event where you need some semblance of astuteness, make sure the shade is dusty or muted, not bright.

Maybe that’s why serious business attire has always been navy or gray set off by a white shirt, and some necktie color to draw attention to your face. And now we know it’s a consideration for casual clothes!


E-Tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Fashion Mistakes

Why be concerned with your appearance?

Is it really that important to your career, romance, or influence over others?
Absolutely!!!
It’s a scientific fact that people who don’t know you make up their minds about you on a subliminal/prehistoric basis in 30 seconds or less. This evaluation of you by others takes place so quickly and is so entrenched in the human brain that it is not usually conscious thought.
Behavioral scientists tell us that we notice the following about another human being and in this order: Skin color, Sex, Age, Bearing (height, body language, etc.), Appearance, Direct Eye Contact, and Speech.

The first three we can do nothing about, but we can take advantage of this knowledge to enhance and control how to present the best image of ourselves.
Since 80% of what others see is our clothes, lets look at some basic faux pas:

1. Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie. Short sleeve shirts are perceived as lower class apparel. Fine as part of a uniform or if you aspire to be a fast-food manager, not if you want to project a professional image.
And the Button-Down collar dress shirt is not acceptable for dressy eveningwear (after 6 PM) nor with a double-breasted suit. That's because even though it's now a daytime business classic it was originally a sport shirt. The collar was buttoned-down by polo players to keep it from flapping in their faces.
2. Shoes are one of the most evaluated elements of men's wardrobes. Your shoes should be clean, shined, in good repair and appropriate for the occasion. If you are wearing a suit, wear lace-up shoes.

Don’t wear the same shoe on consecutive days and keep shoetrees in your shoes when you’re not wearing them.
3. Trousers should be long enough to cover your socks, and socks should cover your shins even when you cross your legs. Pants are long enough if they have a slight break in the front.

Pleats and cuffs are traditional and functional. Pleats let you sit down comfortably and cuffs add weight to the bottoms allowing for proper drape.

4. Never wear both a belt and braces (suspenders). You'll appear insecure.
5. Socks should match your trousers.
6. Belts should match your shoes.
7. Ties should reach your belt line. This is neither arbitrary nor negotiable. Too short of a tie makes you look like a rube.
8. Properly knotted ties have a “dimple” under the knot. Clips and tacks are out of date.
How to get a dimple under your knot?
Place your index finger in the middle of the tie just under where the knot is forming, pinch that part of the necktie between your thumb and middle finger and squeeze together as you pull it down and tighten the knot.



The necktie knot should hide the collar button.
9. Suit and Sports jackets are symbols of authority. However the bottom buttons of men's jackets are not designed to be buttoned, since King Edward VII gained weight, and started a fashion trend.
Single Breasted suits can have one, two, three or more buttons. Two and three button jackets are classic, one or more than three get you into the fashion forward arena, which is more suitable for social events than business. With two button jackets only the top button is fastened.
With three button jackets, you can close the middle, or middle and top button. Some suits are made so that the lapels roll to the middle button. On those suits you leave the top button unfastened. Some East Coast hipsters fasten only the top of three buttons!

Four or more button jackets may be designed to fasten all the buttons, even the bottom. If the bottom button of a four button can be closed without a noticeable pulling of the fabric, it’s ok to close or leave it open.
Double Breasted suits are the more formal of the two styles and can have four to six buttons with one or two “to button”. They are often identified by a two-number designation such as 4/2, 4/1 or 6/2 (also “four to two”).

Translated, the first number gives the total number of front buttons and the second is the number of functioning buttonholes. It doesn’t always mean that all the buttons have to be fastened.
Often only the middle or upper button is secured on a 4/2 or 6/2, but the Duke of Kent started buttoning only his lower button creating a longer diagonal line across his chest giving the wearer a thinner, more dynamic look.
Why do men never button the bottom button of your suit, sports jacket, vest or Cardigan sweater?
King Edward VII, “Bertie”, son of Victoria (1841 – 1910, King 1901 - 1910) was so heavy that he could not get the bottom button fastened on his vest or to be more historically kind, maybe he just forgot. His subjects taking it as a fashion statement followed his lead and today most men’s suits, sports jackets or vests are not designed to button the bottom button.

The tradition of not buttoning the bottom button may have also come from the early waistcoats, which were very long. It may have been out of necessity of being able to walk that the bottom buttons were left undone.
10. Suit and Sports jackets should fit properly which includes showing 1/4" to 1/2” of “linen” or shirtsleeve at the jacket sleeve.

We live in a complex, crowded society where considerate people dress appropriately for various places and occasions. Dressing appropriately is about respect for your fellow humans and our institutions.


Source : AskAndyaboutclothes.com


E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Fashion Trends For Women

May I thank you for expediting the shipment of this beautiful coat, which fits perfectly! I shall be ordering constantly from Ravis Tailor.
Peter P...........Temecula, CA, USA

Ravistailor News Articles



Fashion Trends For Women

March 14th, 2011



To be updated about the latest fashion trends is must for every woman. Whether she dons them or not but proper knowledge is must. It is so because women represent fashion.

Fashion is an inconstant thing which keeps changing from time to time. Therefore you should chase it every time for knowing what is latest in fad. With it fashion is very unpredictable also and you will never come to know what can come next. Sometimes it takes a completely new toll and sometimes revamps old fashion in a new way. This season same has happened. Fashion which is in trend this season is old but given a new form to match the current fashion trends. For knowing what is in trend this time read below.

Ruffle Dresses:
Ruffle dresses are touching fashion greatly this time. Once they were gone but they have again made a comeback in fashion world. Ruffle skirts, ruffle dresses, ruffle gowns, ruffle tops etc. all are greatly admired by women and are highly worn also. In its all forms ruffles along the neckline are high in rage. Ruffles also create a feminine look with a touch of sophistication thus perfect for wearing in spring season.

Flared Skirts:
Skirts have also made a comeback this time. But the style which is hitting fashion market is of flared skirts. Women are seen becoming crazy for flared knee length skirts. These flared skirts come in layers and gathers and are very much in vogue. This latest fashion trend can be worn to any occasion.




Glamorous Dresses:
Dresses that look glamorous are also latest in trend this time. Glamorous dresses are not something new in fashion but their craze was gone down for sometime but again that space has been filled. They look very classy and elegant on wearing. Glamorous dresses are quite popular as eveningwear. The most looked after style of this time is mid length dress with layering. When worn with contrasting leggings looks awesome. Long flowing glam dresses are perfect for donning to the red carpet affair.

Cocktail Shorts:
Shorts are favorites of women since times. But this time they have given a new look in the form of cocktail shorts. Cocktail shorts have brought a new touch to the appearance of shorts. Cocktail shorts are dressy and can be worn in evening parties, cocktail parties, formal parties etc. They come in variety of colors and fabrics. When paired with a pair of stilettos and a fitted jacket gives appearance a dashing look. They are favorites of celebrities and many are seen sporting them.

Jazzy Accessories:
Accessories are many and of various metals and various types. But latest in trend are jazzy accessories that shine appearance like them. You cannot ignore them. Jazzy accessories give fabulous look when teamed with hip-hop attire, jeans, stylish skirt etc. They create an interesting look.

These few pieces of fashion are trend of this time. Keeping them in your closet will show your connection with the fashion world. Dont know what will come next but for this time these are in trend.


By: William Turner

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Elements Of Black Tie Attire

The Elements of Tailor made Black Tie Attire

Unlike white tie, which is very strictly regulated, black-tie ensembles can display more variation. In brief, the traditional components are:

* A jacket with ribbed silk facings (usually grosgrain) on a shawl collar or peaked lapel (while a notched lapel is a popular modern choice, it is not traditionally considered correct)
* Trousers with a single silk or satin braid covering the outer seams
* A low-cut waistcoat or Cummerbund
* A white dress shirt with a turn-down collar, shirt studs, and cufflinks (a marcella front is traditional, but other styles are also accepted - a wing collar shirt is acceptable in the US)
* A black ribbed silk bow tie matching the lapel facings (self-tie bow ties are preferred but not necessary)
* Black dress socks, usually silk or fine wool
* Black shoes, highly polished or patent leather Oxfords, or patent leather court shoes

Tuxedo Jacket

The typical black-tie jacket is single-breasted, ventless, and black or midnight-blue; usually of wool or a wool–mohair blend. Double breasted models are less common, but are equally acceptable. The lapels may be faced with silk in either a grosgrain or less traditional satin weave. Traditionally there are two lapel options, the shawl collar, derived from the smoking jacket, and the peak lapel, from the tailcoat. The former is older, while the latter is considered more formal. A third lapel style, the notched lapel, has only recently gained popularity, and has been accepted by some as "a legitimate ... less formal alternative," although, despite some precedent, it is disdained by purists for its lounge suit derivation. In France, Italy, Brazil, Germany and Spain, the jacket is called smoking. In France the shawl-collared version is le smoking Deauville, while the peaked-lapel version is le smoking Capri.


The double-breasted jacket is slightly more modern than the single-breasted, and less formal; while it was originally considered acceptable only for wear at home (similarly to Prince Albert slippers or a smoking jacket), it is now equally correct in all situations, though traditional rules regarding slightly different selections of accessories may be followed. While more common with a peaked lapel, a shawl lapel is appropriate. All buttons that can be done up, are, including any inner ones which might normally be left undone on a double-breasted lounge suit. While two-button variants are sometimes seen, the traditional single-breasted jacket has a one-button closure.

Trousers

Black tie trousers have no turn-ups (cuffs) or belt loops. The outer seams are usually decorated with a single silk braid or less traditionally a material that matches the lapel facing. Customarily, braces (suspenders) hold up the trousers; they are hidden by the waistcoat (if worn) or by the coat. The trousers traditionally feature a pleated front, flat-front trousers being a modern innovation in this context.

Waistcoat or cummerbund

The waist is dressed in either a waistcoat (aka Vest) or a cummerbund when wearing a single-breasted coat. The waistcoat should be low-cut; traditional models may be of either the 'V' or rarer 'U' shape and may be backless or fully backed, double or single breasted, and should have shawl lapels. Single breasted styles should have no more than three buttons, and double no more than three rows.

Tuxedo Shirt

The shirt is conventionally white or off-white (cotton or linen) with a turn down collar. Its front is usually traditional marcella but can be pleated, plain, or more rarely a stiff front (as with white tie).


E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Types Of Skirt

Skirts have been in fashion singe centuries, though their styles and patterns have got evolved with the time. And the best part about skirts is you can wear them at any occasion, whether you have to dress formally or simply chill out in casuals. While straight and pleated skirts impart a sophisticated look to the women, you can give the impression of being the replica of 1950’s actress by wearing full or ballerina skirts. Floral designs in skirts are liked by most of the girls in casual wear which also provides them a delicate look. In India, skirts have been in trend since times immemorial, and the cotton handloom skirts manufactured here, are loved by every Indian woman. Besides these cotton handloom skirts, there are many other types of skirts available across the world.

A-line skirts
A-line skirts, also called princess skirts, can be especially flattering to plus-size figures, but can be worn well by all figure shapes. An A-line skirt is shaped like a capital letter "A", with a snug waist spreading out into a triangular shape. A-line/princess skirts are considered a wardrobe staple, especially in a neutral color and a season-spanning fabric such as lightweight wool.
This is the basic skirt that has been customized to a great extent. With slight flare having rough shape of capital letter ‘A’, it fits at the waist while slightly touching hips and thighs; it is broader at the hem.

Flared Skirts
Actually Flared skirts are A-line skirts, but they have extra flare which beautifully covers the fat over hips and thighs. Women who are thin can also try this out in large prints as it will give a voluptuous appearance.

Fit and Flare Skirts
It is just about a variation in flared skirt and in this, flare starts from the hip, not from the waist. Girls having smaller derriere would love such skirts as it will accentuate the hip curve and cover up the lack of thigh curve.


Straight Skirts
Just true to its name, straight skirt falls rightly from the hip. These skirts suit almost everyone, though depending upon the body shape, length and waistline, results may vary.

Pencil Skirts
Hugged to the body from the waist to just above the knee, these skirts come in stretch material and with a back slit at times. Such skirts go only with slim and skinny figures as they emphasize the hips and the derriere.

Tube Skirts
Simply the longer versions of the pencil skirts, Tube skirts fit at the hip and taper at the hem. The visible difference is that they go down below the knee. It suits slim figures.

Mini Skirts
These casual and sexy skirts are loved more by men than women. Mini skirts can be very short and just right to reveal a beautiful pair of legs. Short women can always rely on this because mini skirts elongate the legs.

Pleated Skirts
Plated skirts appear best in short length, just above the knees. The flare of this skirt is reduced by plates and it fits the waist. It looks nice on both, slim and a little plump figures.

Asymmetric Hem Skirts
Asymmetric Hem Skirts come in a variety of shapes and suit a variety of figures. In this, the hem moves and curls in a pattern at different levels. It usually conceals various flaws at the hip, thigh or leg.

Bias Cut Skirts
Bias cut skirts are cut across the fabric's grain on the diagonal. Cutting on the bias creates a flowing hemline that can seem ultra-feminine and romantic. Bias cut skirts can be long or short and have panels or multi-layers.

Tulip Skirts
Tulip skirts have more fabric around the hips than pencil skirts, giving them the shape of an inverted tulip. Tulip skirts look good on most figure types, especially slender figures as tulip skirt fabric tends to add a little extra bulk around the hips.

Fishtail Skirts
A traditional fishtail skirt is a long, ankle-length skirt that is tightly fitted from the waist to the knee and then flares out to create a fishtail look. Some new designs of the fishtail skirt have a pleated area between the legs and crotch that allows the wearer more leg room to walk. Fishtail skirts are often worn for nicer occasions like weddings or proms.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com